July 26

Day 2 Rosehearty to Pennan

Another glorious sunny day in glorious sunny Scotland.

P1070700Rosehearty harbour

We were a bit late setting off this morning so ate a late breakfast at Rosehearty Harbour of, for me, some corned beef slices, for Janet some Aberdeen butteries or morning rolls as they are called here. The cooling wind has been very welcome although it was overly robust and blew my corned beef slices into the grass. I am still feeling fine so assume that there was nothing nasty in the sward.

P1070702Rosehearty Tower

Rosehearty Tower is an old RAF observation tower but is now a rather nice residence with fine views. The footpath goes past it and on to a nice seaside track.

P1070706Seaside track and Janet

P1070710A natural rock pool.

The stroll so far was going wonderfully well and we were thinking that we would recommend it to family and friends, even to those who might not want anything too strenuous. The views are wonderful as one can see for miles and miles and miles.

P1070716The patent skirt saver was still a bit of a white elephant as the helpful Scottish landowners had provided stiles on the path.

P1070727They had even provided skirt savers themselves, I was devastated.

Things were still going well until we hit a jungle of reedy type plants which were as high as an elephants eye and took a lot of barging through without the benefit of machetes.

I am still surprised by the beautifully mown strip of grass we encountered on climbing over a stile. It was like magic. We strolled down it like royalty.P1070732In fact the beautifully mown strip of grass led to a castle perched on a cliff. The place was obviously lived in and well cared for but we didn’t see a soul.

So far the stroll was perfect. We had enjoyed a strenuous walk but over cliffs where the indentations of other walkers’ feet could be easily seen. Passing the castle was to lead us on to something much more challenging.

The path at this point follows the cliff edge. If you don’t enjoy standing on the edge and walking then this bit isn’t for you. Indeed it became obvious that it wasn’t for us either as a few landslides had destroyed any chance of following our chosen route. We gave it a go but had to give up eventually. Of course this raises problems. If the path no longer exists where does one go?

The only answer was to hop over a fence and skirt a field.

Our pace was reduced to less than 1 mile an hour at this point as we were retracing our steps as well as climbing fences using the patent skirt saver. It began to look as though we might be very late getting to Pennan as there were bogs, gorse etc at every turn. The gentle stroll we had planned was becoming something else entirely.
The first place on our stroll was to be Aberdour Beach, a mere 3 miles from Rosehearty, We still hadn’t got even there, despair.

P1070750Although a slice of cheese and a boiled egg at Aberdour Beach soon drove the despair away. The final nail in old despair’s coffin was a sign saying 3 miles to Pennan. We should go to the ball after all.

P1070756This fine fellow was delighted to see us as we were delighted to see him. We exchanged friendly greetings and parted friends.

P1070770The rest of the stroll was enjoyable and easy. There was a bit of up and down but nothing remarkable. We had been told that the Pennan Hotel of Local Hero fame was no longer open. Well, it is open and we have eaten large bowls of delicious Cullen Skink washed down with suitable beverages. The bed tonight is comfortable so good night, sleep tight etc.

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Posted 26/07/2018 by Mike Higgins in category "Inverallochy to Forres


  1. By Sue Jelleyman on

    Tbis ia more like your style of strolling! Unexpected obstacles overcome with style and panache and a comfirtable (I hope) bed and good food at the end! Sleep well!

    1. By Janet May on

      We had an extremely comfortable bed at the Pennan Inn of “Local Hero” fame. I felt I should write an email to Mark Kermode, but was too busy with other things.

  2. By Alison and Rob Clark on

    Well done for overcoming obstacles! A great story of the day and lovely photos. Good luck tomorrow

    1. By Janet May on

      How lovely to hear from you again. I do hope you enjoy Mike’s meanderings once more. We’re enjoying ourselves again, but the legs are two years older, so we hope they will stand up to the current rigours.

  3. By Anne Weller on

    Great use of the patent skirt saver. What a beautiful day for a stroll. Sleep tight in your comfy beds.

  4. By Anne Weller on

    We have spent a very pleasurable hour this afternoon trying to identify the castle in your photographs. Arthur has the electronic version of Ordnance Survey maps of the UK and we think we have found it. Dundarg Castle and Fort. Apparently the house is built on the site of the old castle and it is quite clearly visible on the maps we have online. Fascinating. There is. Wikipedia page bout it. The house was built for Wing Commander David Vaughn Carnegie in 1938. He was a senior RAF Commander in the war. Can’t be his washing though coz he would be too old. No clue as to who owns it now. The Castle and Promontary fort are scheduled buildings and the house is Category B listed. The online maps show the outlines of the originals really clearly. Thank you.

    1. By Mike Higgins (Post author) on

      We think that you are correct. The new building is on the cliff edge with a sort of stack thinly attached to the main bit of cliff. There is, what appears to be, an old stone wall on the stack this must be the original building. great fun isn’t it. Pass on our regards to the super sleuth Arthur.


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